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And now seriously… do we ever get to evaluate the taste of coffee?

Do we ever evaluate the taste of coffee?
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When I entered the coffee world—and I wouldn't say the specialty coffee world, because it was, as I see it now, low-quality coffee—when I entered, I knew nothing about varieties, origins, and processing.

And I was exploring. So I could easily try Sumatran coffee, or Indian Monsoon Malabar, or Jamaican Blue Mountain, or pay crazy money for the expensive geisha cafe, which didn't have any roasting dates. And a classic: going to Starbucks to check out their single origins.

And there was always a conflict. Because I couldn't taste the flavors written there in the tasting notes on the coffee bags.

But until recently, I pretended I could. (And I'm far from the only one who did!)

I now know that, as it was a low-quality coffee, and the roast was quite dark, it would not have been possible to taste the jasmine flowers in that old, rickety Geisha, nor the strawberries in the Monsoon Malabar.

But the labels said so. And I was insisting that I felt it. Probably, if I were more confident and honest with myself, I would have used the words "stale," "old," "paper." But no. I didn't have enough vocabulary, and I hadn't learned at that point to trust my receptors.

Only after a while did I get into the routine of tasting, begin to eat more consciously, expand my palate, and, over time, be able to taste more and more things. But it's a training process. And I'm not a "supertaster" of any kind. It's just a training process of learning how to put what you're feeling into words, and do it quickly and accurately.

And when I started getting into that tasting routine, it really made me realize how lazy my brain was. Every tasting became a battle against my brain's tremendous laziness, and it continues to be so to this day. Every time.

I realized that if I knew the roaster, or the origin, and I liked the previous experience, I tended to give higher scores. So I discovered almost immediately that it's mandatory to taste blind if you don't want your expectations to interfere.

I realized that if I like the flavor of coffee, I tend to also evaluate acidity and body more highly, and not analyze them carefully. I started to focus more on each parameter.

I realized that the packaging, the brand image, how expensive it is, my first impression of how much the company invested, will automatically make me rate the coffee higher. It will distract me from the flavor itself, because I'll make a connection between the packaging and quality. It also works the other way around: if I'm not impressed with the brand and the packaging, I may reduce the points when I'm tasting it. My brain is creating a connection that doesn't exist in reality.

And the list goes on and on; I'll write later about the tasting itself, which can be useful, as well as useless, if that topic interests you.

Right now, my questions are about something else.

I recently tasted a coffee, "X." In two different locations, the same coffee, within a one-month period. The tasting notes on the label say, let's say, "mango." But if you cup it, blind, you'll simply feel the roast. Burnt, toasty, charred, smoky—that's what I wrote on my cupping form while I was blind-tasting it. Twice.

So I'm not even saying it doesn't taste like mango, but it does taste like pineapple or hazelnut, and the tasting notes are inexact, but more or less close.

I'm saying there's no trace of specialty coffee quality in the coffee's flavor, and the only thing you can find is the flavor of the roast itself. There's not even the possibility of adding "nut" to it, because there are no nuts.

But then I saw several people writing about that particular coffee and repeating the “mango” story.

And I repeat, there is no doubt that this coffee has notes of "mango," because there is none.

So the reality is, once again, revealing. It means that many people who write about coffee, who write about food, don't take the time to taste. They're writing about flavors, but they don't trust their own sensations; they rely on someone else's misleading descriptions.

You don't have to be a real professional in sensory evaluation.

All of us, when we start tasting, start with very poor vocabulary and end up using only 6-10 descriptors.

We can't taste the "handle" yet, but we use the words "roasted," "smoky," "chocolatey," "fruity," "almondy," "citrusy," "floral": those general descriptions are enough—yes, they are ENOUGH—to make an honest assessment, in this case, of the coffee you're drinking. Yes, you won't look as smart as if you were writing "This coffee tastes of rose petals and amaretto liqueur, with some delicate notes of clementine peel"—you won't look as good, no.

But on the other hand, it's better to keep trying and give an honest description of the coffee you're drinking. Yes, it will be short, like "chocolate," "full-bodied," "balanced," but you won't put yourself in the foolish position of writing that it tastes like mango when the coffee is totally burnt.

And the descriptors will come with time. When you learn to connect what you feel with words. It will come. It always comes. You don't need any special talent for that. All you need is to keep practicing, stay connected to your sensations, and be impartial. It takes time, but it always comes.

That's all for now.

As always, I'm just trying to say that the time invested in mastering a skill is always worth it. And tasting is an essential skill in the food industry and, therefore, in specialty coffee.

In other words, don't be afraid to say, "You know, dude, I can't feel the handle."

Because chances are you're right.

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On the importance of not generalizing

On the importance of not generalizing
dav

I sat down with the idea of writing about one thing, and ended up thinking about something else :)

I've been thinking a lot about crema these past few days: does color really matter? Do lines matter? I mean, we all know something about it, from old-school standards. Or how over- or under-extracted espressos probably look. I'm curious about finding out information about those that are well extracted. I'd just like to clarify my doubts regarding flavor and... TDS Mainly, if there's any connection between them and the appearance of the cream. How does this influence the flavor? I'll probably run an experiment soon, just out of curiosity. 

But in the meantime, a brief comment on the coffee-related phrases I've heard that have raised more questions than answers, and why I don't see them as making sense, at least to me. All of these have to do with precision in sensory evaluation.

Specialty coffee has a lot to do with sensory evaluation.

And funny enough, it also has a lot to do with marketing now – all those Instagram posts, all that boasting about “my specialty coffee is more specialty than your specialty,” “our coffee is the best,” espresso machines sexy and expensive, etc…

I find it important to emphasize first that these machines are still operated by people. Skills still matter.

And so – once again – specialty coffee is really about sensory evaluation.  If there is one skill that is mandatory, it is tasting.And what is cupping? It's the ability to blindly evaluate the flavor, the sensory experience, of a beverage called coffee.  Basically, it's the ability to tune out everything else (everything you're being told), trust your judgment, and be as impartial as possible. 

So, some phrases that do indeed have to do with sensory evaluation, and made me think:

“This coffee has the acidity of an Ethiopian coffee.”   

A year ago, I had a guest, who was definitely well-versed in coffee, come over for an espresso. And after drinking it, he confidently shared his assessment with my bosses. When I heard it, I was absolutely amazed. "This coffee has the acidity of an Ethiopian coffee," (incidentally, it was Mundo Novo natural pulp from Brazil).

My internal questions, which arose almost immediately, were: and what is the acidity of Ethiopian coffee like? Are all the Ethiopian coffees do they have the same acidity?

I understand that what he probably meant was “this coffee has a high and pronounced acidity and for my taste it is too prominent, and it lacks balance” – I assume that, taking into consideration the common Portuguese taste, which is still present.

But you understand me, right? Anyone who has tasted Ethiopians You can understand what I mean. One can say that Ethiopians sometimes don't have that much body, as they're more on the floral side, like lime and bergamot, sometimes spices, depending on the region and the process – but regarding acidity, even if you try really hard, you can't make it seem the same. Or am I missing something?

I don't know. The acidity of Ethiopian coffee doesn't mean anything to me, except for the fact that it's a more complicated way of saying "high acidity." Let's be more precise in our sensory evaluation. If you intend to evaluate, evaluate intensity, evaluate quality.

And the other one I've heard, which I've heard like twice in the last few weeks, and I couldn't agree then, and I've understood that I still can't:

“It tastes like coffee from Brazil

Brazil is huge. It has different types of coffee. Specialty and commercial. Usually naturally processed, or naturally pulped, but not always. There's been a lot of experimentation in recent years and many surprises. What do you mean by Brazilian coffee?

Good body? Low yield? Low acidity? Generic coffee flavor?

I understand that this is again a generalization in sensory experience, but my whole being calls for more precision.

“Coffee from Brazil” probably means catuaí, or mundo novo varieties, or acaia, widely grown there. It probably means natural pulped process. It probably means medium acidity.

Let's just be more precise, in our judgment, in our descriptions.

This is all we have left to do: agree on our vocabulary, try to be as precise as possible in our descriptions, train our palate, try to avoid generalizations, and constantly expose ourselves to different sensory experiences to expand our sensory memory.  

Because if it weren't for the flavor, we'd only be left with the image of specialty coffee as something hipster and trendy, but lacking something important at its core.