Description
The small region of Kirinyaga, where the Kii mill is located and surrounding the village of Ngariama, is primarily a tea-growing area. Most of the coffee plantations are relatively new, which has benefited the quality of the crops. This region is known for the extremely high quality of both tea and coffee. Because the coffee plantations were planted somewhat later than in other neighboring regions, the soil has not been depleted by intensive conventional agriculture and the use of chemical fertilizers. We have visited the area several times, most recently in February of this year.
Kii
At Kii, the density of coffee and tea plantations is evident in the lush, green landscape, nurtured by rich volcanic soils that have remained relatively untouched. The northeastern part of Kirinyaga is home to some of our favorite Kenyan coffees. Kii is managed by the Rungeto Farmers Cooperative Society, which also runs the Karimikui and Kiangoi stations, where we have purchased lots in the past. This year, we visited the Rungeto team, met the board, and toured each station. Although it has been a challenging year in Kenya, due to changes in milling regulations that delayed exports, the cooperative acted quickly to ensure its coffees were among the first to be processed, guaranteeing fair and prompt payments for its members.
Rungeto FCS
After our visit and many cupping sessions in Nairobi, we've decided to focus our work this year on Rungeto, and will be sharing several lots from their stations in the coming months. Also in Ngariama are the Thirikwa cooperative, owners of Gakuyuini, and the New Ngariama cooperative, which owns Kamwangi, Kainamui, and Kiamugumo; household names for their outstanding quality. This small region continues to impress with the consistency of its coffees; most farmers grow the SL28 and SL34 varieties, with only a small percentage adopting resistant varieties such as Ruiru 11 or Batian.
Processing cherries
The Rungeto cooperative manages cherry processing in an exemplary manner, from selection to grading. The cherries are mechanically depulped as soon as they arrive at the factory, ensuring a streamlined process that is close to small farmers. After depulping, the mucilage is fermented in large tanks for 12 to 24 hours, allowing for effective cleaning through washing channels. A second fermentation then takes place underwater for 10 to 12 hours, a practice known as "double soaking," which improves the cleanliness and intensity of the cup profile, as well as allowing for better bean selection.
Quality and flavor profile
Each batch is processed separately and tasted individually, allowing for constant quality assessment and continued improvement. This washed Kii coffee stands out for its fresh character, with notes of currants and the balance of rich black tea, a combination that reflects the essence of Kirinyaga and the dedication of its farmers.
